The second crucial component of the futa gyaru is the gyaru (ギャル) subculture, a vibrant and often defiant movement in Japanese youth fashion. Derived from the English slang word "gal", gyaru emerged as a powerful statement against conservative societal norms. The gyaru subculture first appeared in the 1970s, but it truly gained significant traction and reached its zenith during the 1990s and early 2000s. At its genesis, gyaru was a powerful act of rebellion against the prevailing Japanese social and aesthetic standards. During a time when women were often expected to conform to traditional roles, such as housewives, and adhere to specific beauty ideals like pale skin and dark hair, gyaru embraced a bold, nonconformist appearance. Initially, the kogyaru (子ギャル, "kid gal") emerged in the early 1990s, pioneered by affluent private school girls who sought to differentiate themselves. They sported expensive European bags, chestnut-brown hair, and slightly tanned skin, shortening their school uniform skirts and pairing them with loose socks. This initial wave was not necessarily a rebellion of the oppressed, but rather a deliberate deviation from the traditional ideals of beauty within the more affluent classes. It was their way of signaling a carefree, rebellious spirit that challenged the expectations placed upon their generation to conform. The gyaru aesthetic is instantly recognizable and has undergone numerous transformations throughout its history. However, several core elements consistently define the look: A hallmark of the gyaru style is heavily bleached or dyed hair, typically in light colors such as blonde, light brown, or even more vibrant shades like strawberry blonde. This often contrasts sharply with the natural dark hair prevalent in mainstream Japanese society. Hair is frequently styled with extensions, curls, and voluminous, teased bouffants, aiming for an exaggerated and often playful look. Gyaru makeup is characteristically heavy and dramatic, focusing on enlarging the eyes and creating a doll-like or wide-eyed appearance. This involves extensive use of false eyelashes, bold eyeliner, colorful eyeshadows, and sometimes circle lenses. Lips are typically glossy, and for some substyles like ganguro or yamanba, white makeup accents around the eyes and nose contrast with deeply tanned skin. While not universal across all gyaru substyles, tanned skin—either natural or artificial—became a prominent feature, particularly in the peak of the subculture's popularity. This deliberate darkening of the skin was a direct rejection of the traditional Japanese preference for pale complexions, further emphasizing the gyaru's rebellious stance. Gyaru fashion is known for its distinctive and often extravagant choices. Short skirts, crop tops, platform shoes, and clothing adorned with vibrant colors or animal prints are common. Early kogyaru famously wore shortened school uniforms and loose socks, a trend that became iconic. The initial emphasis on expensive brand-name items reflected the affluent backgrounds of some early gyaru. Shibuya 109, a prominent department store in Tokyo, became a central hub for gyaru fashion, essentially serving as a style guide for enthusiasts. Beyond the visual elements, gyaru embodies a specific lifestyle and attitude. They are often portrayed as cheerful, sociable, and carefree, with a strong sense of individuality and a rebellious spirit that challenges traditional Japanese norms of behavior. While sometimes stereotyped as frivolous or promiscuous in media, this was often an unfair characterization of the actual subculture. The gyaru movement was fundamentally about self-expression and creating a space for individuality. The gyaru subculture is not monolithic; it encompasses a vast array of substyles, each with its unique characteristics, demonstrating the subculture's transformative nature and ability to stay "deviant" as it evolved. Some of the most notable substyles include: * Kogal (コギャル): The initial wave, focusing on schoolgirl-inspired outfits with a rebellious twist (shortened skirts, loose socks, dyed hair). * Ganguro (ガングロ) & Yamanba (ヤマンバ)/Manba (マンバ): More extreme forms characterized by very dark tans, contrasting white makeup around the eyes and lips, bright hair, and flamboyant accessories. Yamanba, meaning "old mountain witch," often involved even more dramatic makeup and hair. * Hime Gyaru (姫ギャル): An exaggerated and costly feminine style, resembling princesses, with excessive use of pink/pastel colors, laces, bows, and often large wigs. * Agejo (アゲ嬢): A more glamorous style popular among hostesses, featuring sophisticated makeup, styled hair, and elegant dresses. * Amuraa (アムラー): Inspired by pop singer Namie Amuro, featuring chunky platform shoes, micro-mini skirts, and brown dyed hair. Magazines like Egg and Popteen played a crucial role in documenting and popularizing these trends, providing a platform for gyaru to express themselves and for newbies to learn the style. Although the subculture experienced a decline in the late 2000s and early 2010s, elements of gyaru continue to influence modern Japanese fashion, and there has been a notable resurgence in recent years, reflecting a cyclical nature of fashion trends and a renewed interest in self-expression.